Tenerife
Sunrise from the summit of volcano El Teide.
No need to say more.
Fresh and unaware of the agony lying ahead we started our hike. It all started very easy and things were nice and dandy and we were kind of wondering how this could possibly take 5,5 hours. In this tempo we would be at the refuge in 2,5-3 hours. Even with those 20kgs we were each carrying.
Fairly dead landscape. Not (yet) the black volcanic stones that we saw on many places elsewhere on the island. Instead a colorful reddish-yellow sand with occasionally big boulders on the side of the road.
On the rim of the mountain on the left side of the second picture you can just see a couple of buildings from the Tenerife Observatory.
The scenery reminded me a bit of the Grand Canyon in the US.
That first “bit” went fairly easy. Until we came to the part where the actual real climb began. The next image is already from a bit further up. This was the part where the hike was really steep, despite the zig-zagging of of the trail.
And after a long, long 4 hours we arrived at the refuge, 3,270 meters. Very tired, but very satisfied.
Going to see volcano El Teide was our ultimate goal on Tenerife.
El Teide is an active volcano, and it’s the highest mountain in Spain, with its 3,718 meters. It’s the third largest volcano in the world (measured from its base). Its last eruption was in 1909.
Initially we had thought of taking the cable up (see second image), which goes all the way up to about 200 meters under the summit. The last bit should be done on foot.
I got it in my head to want to shoot the sunrise from the summit, though, and the cable didn’t start to go until 9am. That meant we had to go either really early in the morning (sunrise was at about 7.30am, and the walk was said to take anywhere from 3,5-5,5 hours, depending on the hiker’s health and condition and packing), or go the day before and stay overnight.
There’s a refuge, El Refugio de Altavista, on 3,270 meters where hikers can stay overnight, provided they have reserved a spot. From there the last 500 meters up to the summit can be walked early the next morning in the dark.
So that’s what we set out to do.
We managed to reserve two places for an overnight stay in the refuge from an office in Santa Cruz the Tenerife, where no one spoke a word of English. I ended up drawing a mountain with a little hut on the side and a rising sun in the background to explain what we wanted.
And a few days later we drove to the beginning of the trail and set out on our quest.
In terms of wildlife the Canary Islands are pretty safe. The endemic wildlife is limited to birds, bugs and dinosaurs, but nothing predatory. The most dangerous species is a poisonous centipede, which, theoretically, could be lethal to small children and the faint of heart, but otherwise there’s nothing really to worry about.
The dinosaurs are fairly tame, present in abundance (seriously! you have to look where you step, or you’ll step on them), and very willing to pose for a photo.
Although tourism hasn’t really come through to this part of the island (thankfully!), there are some places that are showing a bit more of a commercial attitude already. There are some small shops and musea where you can get your hands on some of the local cuisine like mojo, wine, gofio (which I started referring to as goofio, because it’s seriously weird stuff!) or some of the more standard touristic stuff that no one in his/her right mind would actually buy π
La Orotava is another one of those exceptions. It’s absolutely worth a visit, almost like a trip back in time. It’s a picturesque little village with cute colorful streets with cobblestones and probably the cutest little hotel ever, called Silene. If it hadn’t been in the Lonely Planet book we were carrying around, we probably wouldn’t have found it. It’s an old family home, recommended, I must say. He personally hand-made our breakfast in the morning. Took him forever, but it was worth it π
Roque de las Bodegas is one of the few exceptions to “my” rule of a rather unexciting Tenerife. Roque de las Bodegas in the northern most part of Tenerife has a little beach, a roquey one, and a roquey pier which seems to be used for all kinds of (crappy, ahem) purposes besides it’s main purpose fishing.
Ever thought of doing your groceries in a church? Oh no, stupid, that’s not a church. The Mercado’s the place to go when you want fresh stuff. Fwesh fwuit, fwesh fish, fwesh whatever! And some actually spoke English (the people, that is, not the fwuit or fish π )!
That was one of the things that struck me most, really. You’re in a touristic place like the Canaries, Tenerife at least, and you can count the people who speak English (or sort of) on the fingers of one hand.
You could of course also try El Corte InglΓ©s, but there they primarily sell overpriced bad quality bags at heavy discounts (ask my Better Half about that *grins* )
There’s quite a big contrast between what’s maintained and what’s not quite… Nice houses with kind of… less nice garages or storages, or whatever they are… Nice piece of graffity right out front the Auditorio…
And just because I can’t get enough of it:
I must honestly confess that Tenerife didn’t do much for me. I didn’t find it all that exciting. Of course it has its places that are nice (El Teide, now THAT was an adventure, but more on that later), but overall I don’t necessarily need to go back there.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the capital of the Canary Islands, has a couple of nice spots worth documenting. My favorite by far was the Auditorio, a futuristically designed (music) theater which is supposed to have great acoustics. Unfortunately we didn’t get to listen to any performance there.
I probably shot close to 100 pictures of the building. Really photogenic, it was π
There were some other things, too. Not many, but some… The Monumento de los Caidos for example. A monument to those who were killed in the Spanish civil war. Taken from… well… quite a different angle, I guess π
And there was Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Conception. It’s supposed to be a “cathedral”, but although I’m not quite sure what sets a cathedral and a church apart, I thought it more a church than a cathedral. It’s a pretty building, nonetheless.